The ingredients label on a beauty product tells you more than most people realise. Understanding INCI nomenclature (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) — the system behind every ingredient list — lets you evaluate a product properly without relying on marketing claims.

How to Read an INCI List

INCI lists are ordered by concentration, from highest to lowest. The first ingredient listed is present in the highest quantity. The last ingredient is present in the lowest quantity — often less than 1%. This is why water (Aqua) almost always appears first in water-based products — it makes up the majority of the formula.

The 1% threshold matters. Ingredients at or below 1% concentration can be listed in any order after the point where they drop below 1%. This is why active ingredients like peptides or certain vitamins sometimes appear toward the end of a list even when they're doing important work — they're effective at very low concentrations.

Common INCI Names You'll See on Glow and Flow Health Products

Aqua — Water. The most common cosmetic ingredient. Primary vehicle for water-based formulas.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride — Derived from coconut oil. A lightweight, fast-absorbing skin conditioning agent and carrier oil. Not the same as pure coconut oil (which is comedogenic). Non-comedogenic at this refinement.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil — Jojoba oil. Technically a liquid wax ester that closely mimics human sebum.

Squalane — Hydrogenated plant-derived squalene. Skin-identical lipid, fast-absorbing, non-comedogenic.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter — Shea butter. Rich, deeply conditioning. High in oleic and stearic fatty acids.

Niacinamide — Vitamin B3 in its active form. Multi-function active: pore refinement, brightening, barrier strengthening.

Sodium Hyaluronate — The sodium salt form of hyaluronic acid. Smaller molecular weight than standard HA, penetrates more deeply.

Panthenol — Pro-vitamin B5. Converts to pantothenic acid in skin. Soothing, conditioning, barrier-supporting.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 / Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 — Signalling peptides. Promote collagen synthesis and reduce inflammatory collagen breakdown.

Ascorbyl Glucoside — Stable Vitamin C ester. Releases pure ascorbic acid gradually in skin for brightening and antioxidant protection.

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil — Castor oil. High in ricinoleic acid. Creates the viscous, adhesive quality that gives lip products their shine and staying power.

Tocopherol — Vitamin E. Antioxidant that protects against free radical damage. Also a natural preservative in oil-based formulas.

Mica — Naturally occurring mineral. Finely milled for cosmetic shimmer. Creates light-reflecting glow without synthetic glitter.

Iron Oxides (CI 77491, 77492, 77499) — Mineral pigments used for tinting. Red/brown/black iron oxide in different combinations creates warm, natural tones. Vegan alternative to carmine.

Phenoxyethanol — Synthetic preservative. Prevents microbial contamination in water-based formulas. Safe at concentrations up to 1% (standard use is 0.5–1%).

Green Flag Ingredients

What to look for on a label: plant-derived base oils (jojoba, squalane, sunflower, rosehip), naturally-derived actives (niacinamide, HA, Vitamin C), mineral pigments (iron oxides, mica), and phenoxyethanol as preservative (safe, non-endocrine-disrupting alternative to parabens).

Red Flag Ingredients

What to avoid: mineral oil (Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum) as a primary moisturising agent, parabens (Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben) as preservatives, phthalates in fragrance, and artificial colourants (FD&C dyes) in lip and skin products.

Every Glow and Flow Health product is free from all of the above. Full ingredient lists are published on every product page — because transparency isn't a marketing choice, it's a standard.